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| Need opinions on zoot bindings... http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=8962 |
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| Author: | John Elshaw [ Sun Oct 22, 2006 12:26 pm ] |
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I've never really used high-zoot bindings before, but I have these great snakewood bindings from the zootman and am wondering what your opinions are. The guitar is a classical with EIRW back/sides, cedar top. I have a small purfling combo on the top, however am wondering if most would opt to have a single line of purfling on the side, or go without? I'm just concerned that too much purfling will detract from the zoot and be too much of a good thing. What are your preferences for purfling when using high zoot bindings? Thanks! John |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Sun Oct 22, 2006 2:01 pm ] |
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John, I've used a b/w/b purfling on curly Koa guitars that also have curly Koa bindings. It looked fine to my eye, and maybe partly because the woods were so very close in appearance. Tended to separate some, more than a single line would do. In your case, I think I would go with the single line you suggested. And being a single line, you could do something nice there, as well. Perhaps Satinwood, like Brad Goodman showed, perhaps a line of curly maple. I would do something, and the one line might be just the thing. You could always lay it out on the bench and see how the different woods look together--I mean before you start building. Steve |
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| Author: | Gary L [ Sun Oct 22, 2006 3:23 pm ] |
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I'll admit I'm a purfling fanatic. This classical I have in progress is a bit over the top with five-line purfling between snakewood bindings and ziricote sides. At least this picture will help you decide if the extreme case is too much for your taste. 
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| Author: | James Orr [ Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:04 pm ] |
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After my rosette indecision, I'm not sure how much I trust my response! But, shane at High Mountain has rosewood purflings. What about black/ rosewood/black? I think tops need a little purfling. But I like it to be stealthy, too. For some reason a thin binding alone seems awkward to me. This is completely my taste. |
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| Author: | Shawn [ Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:31 pm ] |
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another option is the LMI has black/white/black or white/black/white lines that are very fine .010/.010/.010 that are double length. It makes for a fine line with a bit more refined look. Another thing that is nice about them is that they are fiber so they bend very easy without breaking. On a side they look really sharp. |
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| Author: | Colin S [ Sun Oct 22, 2006 7:54 pm ] |
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John, my favourite side purfing, in fact the only ones I use, are either a single black line of ebony or a single white line of holly I think that this adds just the separation needed without competing with the side or binding woods, particularly if they are highly figured. You have to remember though that I'm British and because of that tend towards retraint interms of ornamentation. (we don't do abalone!) Colin |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Mon Oct 23, 2006 4:16 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Colin S] You have to remember though that I'm British and because of that tend towards restraint interms of ornamentation. (we don't do abalone!) Colin[/QUOTE] Colin, alas, you are correct. I have stood at the entrance to Westminster Abbey, and thought to myself, "What this plane jane old building needs is some abalone." I think they employed far too much restraint when the old Brits were building that thing. 
National trait, huh? Steve |
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| Author: | D Stewart [ Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:23 am ] |
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Dang, Gary. You have to warn us befor posting such a thing. I had to shut my eyes hard and grope blindly for my sunglass. Too much purfling? I'll let you know when my retinas return to normal. 
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| Author: | Gary L [ Mon Oct 23, 2006 3:58 pm ] |
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Actually I used a welder's mask when installing these purfs .
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| Author: | Mario [ Mon Oct 23, 2006 4:31 pm ] |
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I vote for a single line with the snakewood; it needs something to set it off, since the colors don't really work together. On that same note, snakewood woudln't be my first, or 5th, choice with EIR. Snakewood is lovely with cocobolo or mahogany, since they both lean towards the reds, but EIR? Tape one of the bindings against your EIR, and wet it with alcohol, and take some photos, then study the photos. Do it with and without purflings, and see what your tastes say. Trust -your- instincts. |
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| Author: | SniderMike [ Tue Oct 24, 2006 12:38 pm ] |
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Gary, where did you get 5 line purfling? Did you make it? Mike |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Tue Oct 24, 2006 1:09 pm ] |
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(I can't believe I'm saying this) I'm with Mario on this one. Not sure about snakewood with EIR. I think it looks great with Brazilian or mahogany, but the color combo with EIR wouldn't suit my taste either. Think Koa or Black Acacia... |
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| Author: | John Elshaw [ Tue Oct 24, 2006 2:07 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=Don Williams] (I can't believe I'm saying this) I'm with Mario on this one. Not sure about snakewood with EIR. I think it looks great with Brazilian or mahogany, but the color combo with EIR wouldn't suit my taste either. Think Koa or Black Acacia...[/QUOTE] Oh ye have little faith! I'm not worried about matching the binding and back/sides, I'm just curious what purf to use. Check out the set of wood that's pictured on the auction page--the set I'm using shows off the reds and purples even better! Look at the pic of the rosewood and then the koa set next to it at the top of the main discussion forum--this will give you a better idea of the color combo. As you can see, the EIRW has much more reds/purples than the koa set next to it. I think you guys are right though with one purf line on the side to set it off. |
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| Author: | Gary L [ Wed Oct 25, 2006 2:52 am ] |
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Yes, I made them by gluing standard wood veneers with Titebond II to the plank of snakewood I got at Hibdon Hardwoods. Then I ripped the binding/purfling strips off the assembly. The veneers are natural maple, black-dyed maple, and mahogany. |
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